Frida Kahlo’s House in the Colonia Coyoacan

After our interesting breakfast we head to the metro again. This time we are going to see Frida Kahlo’s house in Colonia Coyoacan. The metro is far busier than it was yesterday and we are crammed in like sardines. Today we have assorted buskers hopping on and off the train, hoping to earn some pesos. The first is an elderly man who plays a harmonica, which actually is a rather generous term for what he does. In fact he only blows a few notes, unrecognizable as any tune, and then comes round with his hat. Unsurprisingly the hat stays empty, and he gets off at the next stop and changes cars.

The second busker is a little more realistic about his talents. He has obviously realized that he has none, and instead brings on a small boom box and plays snatches of Frank Sinatra singing “I did it my way” which seems totally appropriate. He has some minor monetary success and decides to stay in the carriage for another stop. This time it is Frank singing “New York, New York”. The man has a sense of humour and gets a few more pesos.

We get off at our station and have a 20 minute walk through the streets of Colonia Coyoacan to Frida Kahlo’s house. Her house can be seen from blocks away as it is painted in that famous deep blue and there is a large tour bus parked outside. We have read about the tour. It takes you to Frida’s house, gives you lunch and then goes on to Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s House and Study Museum in Colonia San Angel. For this they charge $150 US. We have spent 2 pesos on the Metro and the entrance fee to this house is 55 pesos (under $5)

Fortunately for us, the bus is just leaving, and we enjoy Frida Kahlo’s house with just a handful of other tourists. The house is large and basically in two parts. One half feels like her and is painted in that wonderful blue and green, with yellow floors,

while the other half evokes Diego Rivera and is built with imposing volcanic rock and is much more severe. We christen it Monumental Mayan deco .

The house is shaped like a square “W” with her famous gardens all around.

The rooms are all large with amazingly tall ceilings. Some rooms are laid out with their furniture and house wares to show how they lived,

while others are full of their art in a permanent exhibition. Some of the walls are inscribed with a few of her more poignant quotes. Much of the art is well known to us, but there are some portraits by both artists that we have not seen before and are, of themselves, worth the visit.

We love the feel of the house, the art and the gardens and spend all morning there.